The Seller Series: Martina Mondadori

At ReSee, every one of our secondhand pieces comes with a story: perhaps that 1920s beaded gown had been in the same family for generations, while the Le Smoking suit was made by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent for Catherine Deneuve herself. This is, in large part, thanks to our unmatched community of consignors, who have placed their inestimable trust in ReSee. In the Seller Series, industry titans and world-class collectors alike open up their archives, revealing the iconic items they parted with (and those they maybe never will). 

When Martina Mondadori launched Cabana in 2014, the biannual interiors magazine instantly stood apart with its discerning display of richly layered—and deeply personal—homes across the globe. Far from being limited to just the pages of her publication, though, that meaningful maximalism can be seen in nearly everything the Italian editor-in-chief touches, from her own storied Milanese apartment to her sui generis ensembles, which bring together treasures from eras past and one-of-a-kind curiosities found in the farthest reaches of the world. Whether she’s curating Cabana’s latest tableware collection or dressing herself for the day ahead, her modus vivendi is as simple as it is sage: “Don’t follow trends too much and just find your own style.” 

Your interiors are known for their patchwork aesthetic. Do you approach fashion in the same way? 

Interiors, as much as fashion, should reflect one’s personality and not try to mimic someone else. Growing up, I remember my mother telling me to get to know myself and my body. [She’d say,] ‘What fits you well doesn’t always fit someone else well.’ We’re all different, so don’t follow trends too much and just find your own style. [My outfits are] very much a reflection of my mood. And, yes, I do mix quite a lot of patterns, but if there’s a pattern on the blouse then maybe I’ll wear [solid] trousers. I like timeless clothes and I wear a lot of vintage — I’m wearing a vintage blouse today!

How do you wear vintage?

It’s very much an accent. I often wear vintage vests, jackets, bags, and belts. I love a vintage belt. My absolute favorite [era] is ’70s Saint Laurent. It was very accessorized, so there are lots of pieces to pick from. I do own a lot of vintage, but I also love exchanging it, so maybe I'll sell some and then buy more…

What are your wardrobe essentials? 

I have a few go-to brands that I love because of their fit, like Ulla Johnson and ’70s Saint Laurent. When you know your fit, you feel great no matter where you are, whether you’re at a great social occasion or you’re having an important business meeting. If what you’re wearing makes you feel good, you just kill the room. You own it. 

In the winter, I love velvet trousers in burgundy or dark moss green from Knatchbull, which are [available both] tailor-made and off-the-shelf, and I have two pairs of great vintage Comme des Garçons ones. I also love a perfectly tailored suit, like a classic black tuxedo jacket with a vintage top underneath. When you invest in great quality — by that I mean great tailoring — you can never go wrong; whether it’s vintage or not, you’ll go back to it over and over again.

What are some of your greatest vintage finds? 

I’m afraid it’s going to be all Saint Laurent… A big black couture belt with a beautiful metal center, which I wear on top of a skirt because it sits quite high on the waist. A brown velvet belted safari jacket that’s so chic. And a beautiful ’70s patterned jacket-and-skirt ensemble. It’s great because you can break it up and play around. I’ve actually never worn those pieces together.

When asked to describe Cabana in three words, you once said, “Spirit of discovery.” Are you always seeking out vintage and antiques?

I’m always looking for inspiration — [whether] vintage clothing or great fabrics — for my work at Cabana and our collections for the table or home. When I’m traveling, I always look up the calendar of flea markets. In Budapest last year, I looked for vintage textiles and Hungarian embroidered blouses. I do like to go look for great vintage clothing in the big cities too, but it’s also become very easy to shop online. In the past, there was just one designer that did that brand, so the great thing about vintage is that once you know your brands and your size with each brand, you can’t go wrong.

How do you marry your innate Milanese style with these finds from around the world? 

A Milanese woman is extremely elegant, but she won’t risk it — there won’t be any touch of flamboyance — whereas sometimes I like to add a touch of gold or mix in more ethnic pieces, even just with black trousers and a black top. My mother wore a lot of ethnic jackets and kimonos, so that’s part of who I am.

When did you start consigning? 

My mother, who had an incredible collection, passed away four years ago. It would have been a lot to bring all of her pieces home, so I decided to keep some but sell others and build my own very personal wardrobe.

Which pieces of hers did you hold onto?

I actually inherited the majority of my Saint Laurent from my mom. It was a different time, but she would never have sold anything. She was a hoarder! Maybe I’ve had a bit of a reaction to that — I don’t want my daughter one day to find herself with as many things… I did consign a few of her skirt suits because I’ve never been very much of a straight-skirt kind of girl, but I kept everything from the ’70s and early-80s. I have memories of her in them, but we had rather different figures, so I wear them in a different way. We’ve always had this joke that I have a more similar body to my aunt, so she and I actually still exchange things.

How do you decide when to part with a piece? 

I’m not methodical, but I do go through my closet from time to time. I have an 8-year-old daughter, who’s really into fashion, so I’m holding onto some pieces for her;  I’m not wearing a strapless dress anymore, but maybe she will when she’s 16 or 18, and, if she won’t, then we’ll consign it at a later stage… The pieces I do consign, though, are usually ones that I definitely wouldn’t wear anymore. It’s not always an easy choice because there’s a voice in the back of your head saying you might regret this, but it’s a circular economy at the end of the day. What goes around comes around. And it’s so easy to consign — at least with Resee. It’s a no-brainer.

What are some of the pieces you’ve consigned? 

I’ve been consigning a lot of bags lately. I think bags have to reflect one’s personal practical life. Personally, I’m not someone who carries big, heavy bags; I love crossbody bags because I walk wherever I go and I love to have my hands free, especially while traveling or in an airport. I’ve parted from a few Hermès bags and some more recent Prada bags and Gucci bamboo bags. I’m really leaning towards non-recognizable bags.

What was the hardest piece to part with? 

Most recently, I parted from a beautiful Hermès leather-and-canvas weekend bag that belonged to my father. There was obviously a sentimental side to it, so I really hesitated, but it was for a different lifestyle. I thought, I’m not sure I’ll actually ever use this, so why keep it sitting in the cupboard?

What’s something you’d never give up? 

I would never give up my Saint Laurent Russian Collection pieces, which range from blouses and vests to beautiful long skirts. A friend of mine once told me that I have a gypsy soul, so they reflect my personality.

What’s your ultimate style weapon?

I have an amazing seamstress, Viviana, who comes to my home; a lot of my friends use her too. She used to be the seamstress for the old Milanese shop Pupi Solari, which sells the best kids clothes. She really has made a difference with so many of my vintage pieces. It’s great to be able to slightly adapt your pieces, especially since your body changes over time. So have a great seamstress, and then you’re done.

as told to Zoe Ruffner

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